What modern technology captures the scent molecules of a living
Chapter 1

Ancient origins and sacred smoke

Chapter 2

The science of scent in the Golden Age

Chapter 3

European courtly stench and the rise of Grasse

Chapter 4

The modern synthetic revolution

YOUR GOAL

Master of Sniffing out the history of perfume

Ch 4 · The modern synthetic revolution
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elorea Synthetic Perfume Revolution

With coumarin we captured new-mown hay, to rewrite how we craft a fragrance.

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A chunk of whale vomit prized by perfumers was worth $1.5 million.

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The mysterious musk of the deep

elorea An illustration shows ambergris floating in the ocean next to a perfume bottle.

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Chanel No. 5 and the power of aldehydes

elorea Golden light shines through a classic glass bottle of Chanel No. 5 perfume

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Fun Fact

Whale vomit gold: A single 280-pound chunk of ambergris found on a beach in 2021 was valued at over 1.5 million dollars.

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Glossary
coumarin (noun)
A sweet-smelling compound found in many plants, such as tonka beans, and also produced synthetically. In 1882, Paul Parquet used this synthetic molecule to formulate the landmark fragrance Fougère Royale.

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Gossip

Is synthetic perfume better than using natural animal extracts?

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Quiz

Who was the master perfumer who created Chanel No. 5 for Coco Chanel in 1921?

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Quiz

What class of synthetic chemicals gave Chanel No. 5 its famous sparkling, champagne-like quality?

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Quiz

What is the purpose of a 'fixative' ingredient in a perfume formulation?

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Quiz

Which animal's scent gland was historically harvested to create the sweet, heavy 'civet' note in perfumes?

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Quiz

What is the professional title given to a master perfume creator who has a highly trained sense of smell?

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Quiz

What rare marine substance is produced by sperm whales and used as a high-end perfume fixative?

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Quiz

What modern technology captures the scent molecules of a living flower without picking it?

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Quiz

What synthetic molecule, smelling of sweet hay, was first used in the 1882 perfume Fougère Royale?

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